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Problem: A noisy fridge

Refrigerator noise comes from either the compressor under the fridge, the condenser fan motor under the fridge, or the evaporator fan motor inside the freezer. Open the freezer door while the fridge is running. If the noise doesn't get louder when you open the freezer, pull out the fridge. Most refrigerators have a condenser fan motor (Photo 13). Unscrew the back cover and listen—you'll be able to tell whether the noise is coming from the fan or the compressor. The best cure for a loud compressor is usually a new fridge. To replace the fan motor, remove its mounting screws, unplug it and install the new one.

Easy solutions to refrigerator noises

If the sound gets louder when you open the freezer, the evaporator fan motor is the noisy culprit. This motor is easy to replace. Your fan may not look exactly like the fan, but the basic steps are the same. Start by unscrewing the back cover panel in the freezer compartment. To install the new fan, just reverse your steps.

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Problem: Fridge or freezer won't cool

There are lots of malfunctions that can take the chill out of your fridge. One common cause of suddenly soft ice cream or warm juice is a simple loss of electricity. If the light doesn't come on when you open the fridge door, make sure the fridge is plugged in and check the breaker panel. If the fridge runs but doesn't get cold enough, chances are one of the following fixes will restore the chill.

Easy solutions for cooling problems

FIRST, check the thermostat and vents. The temperature control dial inside the fridge is sometimes irresistible to curious kids. Make sure it hasn’t been turned way down. Also make sure the vents in the fridge and freezer compartment aren't blocked by food containers these vents supply the flow of frigid air.

SECOND, clean the coils. In order for your fridge to create a chill, air has to flow freely through the condenser coils. On most older refrigerators, these coils are on the backside. Cereal boxes on top of the fridge or grocery bags stuffed behind it can reduce the needed airflow. Most newer refrigerators have coils underneath, where they can get blocked by trash and plugged with dust. Even if your fridge is working fine, you should pull off the front grille and clean the coils every year for efficient operation; do it every six months if you have shedding pets. Long brushes are available at appliance stores for $8.

THIRD, free up the condenser fan. Coils on the back of a fridge create their own airflow as they heat up. Models with coils underneath have a fan to push air through them. Dust buildup can slow the fan; wads of paper or other trash can stop it altogether.

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Simple fixes for the four most common refrigerator problems: an ice-maker breakdown, water leaking onto the floor, a cooling failure and too much noise. Chances are, you can solve the problem yourself, save some money and avoid the expense and inconvenience of a service appointment. The following article will walk you through the simplest solutions to the most common fridge malfunctions.

Problem: The fridge produces puddles

The water supply lines that serve icemakers or water dispensers can leak and make pools under the fridge. But a fridge without these features can create water problems too. Every fridge produces water in the form of condensation and melting ice. When the system that deals with this water fails, you can end up with puddles inside and outside of the fridge.

Easy solutions for fridge leaks

FIRST, check the water supply line . If your fridge has an icemaker or water dispenser, pull out the fridge and look for a leak. If there's a leak at the inlet valve, tighten the compression nuts. If the plastic or copper tube is leaking, replace it. Tubing is usually connected to the saddle valve  and inlet valve with screw on compression fittings.

SECOND, level the fridge. Water drains into a pan under the fridge where it evaporates. If your fridge is badly tilted, water can spill out of the pan. Leveling the fridge solves this problem.

THIRD, clear the drain tube. If the drain tube in the freezer gets plugged, water leaks into the compartment below or onto the floor. To unplug it, first remove the cover panel. In some models, you have to unscrew the floor panel too. Use a hair dryer to melt any ice buildup. Sop away the melt water with a sponge. Then clean up around the drain hole. Blow air through the tube to clear it. Any tube that fits tightly into the hole will work. You can also use a tire pump or air compressor (turn the pressure down to 30 psi).

1/4 POST HOW TO FIX YOURS REFRIGERATOR

Simple fixes for the four most common refrigerator problems: an ice-maker breakdown, water leaking onto the floor, a cooling failure and too much noise. Chances are, you can solve the problem yourself, save some money and avoid the expense and inconvenience of a service appointment. The following article will walk you through the simplest solutions to the most common fridge malfunctions.

Problem: Icemaker on strike

When an icemaker stops working or produces only tiny cubes, it's usually because the water supply is partially or completely blocked. To find and fix the blockage, check out the three common trouble spots.

Easy fixes for an icemaker

FIRST, check the water inlet tube for ice. The tube that supplies water to your icemaker can get plugged with ice when the water pressure is low. The trickling water freezes and plugs the tube before it reaches the icemaker.

SECOND, unblock the saddle valve. Most icemakers are connected to the household water supply by a “saddle” valve. One problem with saddle valves is that the needle hole in the pipe can clog. Fortunately, that blockage is easy to clear once you locate the saddle valve. If you have an unfinished basement, you'll probably find a tube beneath the fridge that leads to the valve. Otherwise, look under your kitchen sink.

THIRD, replace the water inlet valve. At the back of your fridge, there's a small electric “inlet valve” that turns the water supply to the icemaker on and off. Before you replace the valve, make sure water is flowing to it: Turn off the water at the saddle valve  and disconnect the supply tube from the inlet valve . Hold the tube over a bucket and have a helper turn on the saddle valve. If water flows out of the tube, the water supply is fine and chances are the inlet valve is bad. See “Finding Fridge Parts” for help finding a new valve. When the job is done, turn the water back on and check for leaks before you push the fridge back into place.

This article will show you how to run a water line to your refrigerator for an automatic ice maker and water dispenser. The story and how-to photos cover tapping into an existing water pipe (the toughest part of the job) and attaching copper tubing to the fridge. If you're replacing your old refrigerator, this DIY project covers everything you need to know to install the plumbing.

The biggest challenge when running a water line to your refrigerator is tapping into the cold water pipe and running the 1/4-in.O.D. (outside diameter) flexible copper tubing. You can buy icemaker installation kits at home centers and some hardware stores, but we don't recommend them. Most contain a saddle valve (which doesn't meet plumbing code in some regions) and some contain plastic tubing (which can dry, split and leak over time). We recommend more permanent valves and copper tubing for better water flow and reduced risk of leaks, which can cause extensive damage.To start, locate the cold water source nearest to the refrigerator—perhaps under the kitchen sink, below the floor, in the wall or even in the ceiling. In this kitchen, we ran the new water line from under the kitchen sink through cabinets. Be sure to keep the tubing above storage areas and behind drawers if possible to avoid tube damage. If you need to drill through floors or walls, check for air ducts, electrical wiring, plumbing or other possible impediments first. Next, calculate how many feet of 1/4-in.O.D. flexible copper tubing you need. Figure 6 to 8 ft. of extra coiled tubing behind the fridge so you can pull it out for cleaning and service.Then decide which one of three water line connection options you will use: a regular tee fitting that is soldered, a compression tee fitting or a saddle valve. Plumbers recommend removing a section of the cold water pipe to solder in a regular 1/2-in. copper tee. If you have CPVC (plastic) or steel pipes, add tee fittings made of the same material. If you don't want to solder, you can cut the copper water pipe and install a 5/8-in.O.D. compression tee instead (just don't use them inside walls because it's not safe and plumbing code won't allow it).Add pipe compound to the threads to make it easier to tighten compression joints.The least dependable option is a saddle valve designed for 1/2-in. copper pipe. It has a tiny shutoff valve that uses a sharp pointed metal rod to pierce the outer wall of the pipe when screwed inward. Then you back out the rod and water flows through a tiny hole into the tubing. Some appliance installers say saddle valves work, but most refrigerator makers recommend that you drill a hole in the pipe for better flow instead of using the valve to pierce the hole, then attach the saddle valve (check your owner's manual).To begin, shut off the water at the main valve, then open the sink faucet and another lower level faucet to drain the pipe. Next, cut out a small section of the cold water pipe and solder in a copper tee. Cut a 3- to 4-in. piece of copper pipe and solder it into the tee under the sink, then solder a water supply stop valve on the other end. Once the assembly has cooled, close the new valve and open the water main to check the fittings for leaks.Then plan a tubing route through all the cabinets (avoiding sharp turns that can kink tubing) and drill 1/2-in. holes as needed between cabinets. To straighten coiled tubing (not the entire roll), have a partner hold the end of the tube flat on the floor, then push the roll against the floor while unrolling to the length you need to go through the cabinets. Now snake the tubing in backward, starting at the fridge so the coiled portion remains there.Next, attach the 1/4-in.water line to the stop valve with a compression joint. Then attach the tubing to the back of the cabinets every 2 to 4 ft. using 1/4-in. nylon wire/cable clamps. Once you're outside the last cabinet, don't attach any clamps; just run the tubing to the floor near the water hookup on the fridge. But do clamp the tubing to the fridge.Don't forget to flush out the tubing by running a gallon of water through the new line into a bucket before you attach it to the fridge. To attach the tubing to the refrigerator, follow the owner's manual.Normally the compression fittings come with the fridge. Before you cut the tubing to its final length, make sure you have 6 to 8 ft. of coiled tubing that will remain coiled and stored behind the fridge when you push it back into place.Be sure to cut the end of the tubing square. Then slide on the compression fittings, lubricate the threads on the refrigerator fitting with pipe compound and screw on the tubing. Important: Hand-tighten the fitting, then tighten three-quarters of a turn using a small wrench on both sides of the fitting. Once it's attached, open the new stop valve and check.

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You may be able to solve your problem by installing a “garage kit,” a heating coil to warm the air around the thermostat. The warmer air makes the compressor run longer and keeps frozen food, well, frozen. Check with the manufacturer to see if itmakes one for your model. But before you shell out $20 for the kit, consider how much you’ll have to spend to keep your brews chilled and pizzas frozen in the summer. Your old fridge is less efficient than your new one, so it’s already costing you more to run. Add 25 percent to run the old clunker in an 80-degree garage. Then double the bill if it’s running in a garage at 90 degrees and up. Are you sure you want to pay that much just to save a trip to the kitchen?

Replace the evaporator fan:

Here are some troubleshooting tips to help you zero in on the problem. If you can hear the compressor running but the fridge isn’t cooling, the problem is most likely either frost-clogged evaporator coils or a stuck or broken evaporator fan. Evaporator fans often squeal or chirp when they start to go bad. You’ll know it’s the evaporator fan if the noise gets louder when you open the freezer door. The evaporator coils and fan are located behind a cover in the freezer compartment.  If you remove the cover inside the freezer and find the coils completely filled with frost, take everything out of the freezer and fridge, unplug it and let it thaw for 24 to 48 hours. Keep a few towels handy to soak up water that may leak onto the floor. When all the frost is melted away, plug the fridge back in. If it works, the problem may be a defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost thermostat. Replacing these parts isn’t difficult, but figuring out which is faulty requires troubleshooting that we won’t cover here. Call a pro if you have  problem.Normally the condenser fan and compressor, located near the floor on the back of most refrigerators, come on the back of most refrigerators, come on when the thermostat calls for more cooling. If you don’t hear the compressor running after the door has been left open for a while, it could mean the condenser fan is stuck or worn out or that the relay or compressor is bad.

Replace the condenser fan:

Pull the fridge away from the wall, unplug it and remove the thin panel on the back near the bottom to access the compressor and condenser fan. Next plug the fridge in and wait for the compressor to come on. The fan should also come on. If the compressor runs but the fan doesn’t, or if the fan is noisy, you need a new fan. If neither runs and the compressor is hot, unplug the fridge and point a fan or a hair dryer set to “no heat” at the compressor. Wait for the compressor to cool and try again. If the compressor runs but the fan doesn’t, the fan is bad. Unplug the refrigerator and replace the fan. If neither runs, then you may need a new relay or compressor. Call an appliance repair technician to find out.

Here's how to troubleshoot a failing fridge that's lost its frosty feel. This step-by-step guide will show you how to identify the problem and possibly even fix it yourself. Even if the repair requires a pro, you will be able to show them the problem thus saving them time and you money.

Problem: Fridge or freezer won't cool:

There are several possible causes when a refrigerator doesn’t keep your milk cold or your ice cream frozen. Before you attempt more complex repairs, try these simple fixes:

• Be sure the fridge is plugged in and getting power. The light should come on when you open the door.
• Check the thermostat to make sure it hasn’t been turned way down by mistake.
• Be sure the vents on the back of the freezer compartment aren’t blocked by boxes of ice cream or frozen vegetables—the vents have to be clear for cold air to circulate.
• Vacuum the coils under or behind the fridge. Clogged coils can cause poor cooling.
• Check to make sure nothing is stuck in the condenser fan and that it spins freely (models with coils on the back won’t have a fan). To do this, unplug the fridge and pull it out. Clean the fan blades and spin the fan by hand to see if it’s stuck. Plug in the fridge and make sure the fan runs when the compressor is running. If the fan doesn’t run, which show how to replace it.

Install a refrigerator water filter to remove the bad taste from drinking water and ice cubes. An inexpensive inline refrigerator water filter reduces chlorine, rust, sediment and odors for water- and ice-dispensing refrigerators. Filters are available from home centers and appliance stores. The filter splices into the standard 1/4-in. copper or plastic refrigerator water supply line. Locate the filter as close as possible to the water shutoff valve. Leave at least 6 in. of clearance between the wall and refrigerator when installing the filter behind a refrigerator. Once you install the system, quick-connect fittings make it easy to change the filter. Turn off the shutoff valve and disconnect the 1/4- in. supply line from the valve (hold a bucket under the valve to catch residual water). Some types of valves leak. You may have to turn off the main water supply valve to your home. Cut back the tubing and attach the quick-connect fittings. Snap the filter into the fittings. Secure the tubing on the fridge side with a 1/4-in. copper strap and flush the filter to dispense any fine loose carbon particles. If a leak occurs, tighten the nuts or fittings. Strap the filter to any nearby support to take stress off the tubing. Write the installation date on the filter and replace it every six months with a new one.

Straighten Sagging Refrigerator Doors

Straighten a crooked fridge door in less than five minutes. You save money too by stopping cool air leaks around the door.

A sagging refrigerator or freezer door doesn't just look bad. It can cause the door gskets to seal poorly, and that means your fridge will work harder to keep the milk cold. It can also lead to frost buildup in the freezer. To realign the door, just pry off the hinge cap and loosen the hinge screws. Then align the door with the top of the refrigerator. Adjust only the top hinge to straighten an upper door. To realign the lower door, adjust the middle hinge. Moving the middle hinge will affect the upper door, so you may have to adjust the top hinge afterward.

You moved the old fridge into the Men's Crisis Center (aka the garage) and now the doors open the wrong way. And that makes for inconvenient beverage access, a problem that must be corrected before pursuing other home improvement activities.

It's an easy DIY project, but you do have to pay attention to the disassembly and reassembly steps and keep track of the plastic parts. If you put them back in the wrong place or leave them out, the doors won't close properly. The entire job takes less than an hour and requires just screwdrivers, pliers and a socket set.

Start by removing all the food from the upper and lower door shelves. Then pry off the upper hinge trim piece (if equipped) with a flat-blade screwdriver. Hold the door in place while you remove the upper hinge screws. Then remove the upper door.

Next, remove the middle hinge screws and the bottom door. Check for plastic parts at both hinges and label them. Then remove the bottom hinge and mount it on the opposite side of the fridge. Swap the door handles and the door stops to the opposite sides of the door.

This next part makes most people crazy, but it makes sense when you think it through. When you flip the middle hinge to the opposite side of the fridge, the upper and lower hinge pins will be facing the wrong direction. Don't panic! Just reverse the hinge pin.

With the middle hinge pin reversed, go ahead and reassemble the doors and hinges and reload your fridge.

How to replace the door gasket

Each door of your refrigerator has a molded rubber gasket to keep the cold in and the heat out. When this gasket gets old and brittle, it leaks. If your refrigerator is running more frequently and you suspect it's losing cold air, conduct these simple tests.

First, inspect the door gasket. Is there condensation or even blackish mold anywhere around it? If so, leaking cold air is probably causing warmer kitchen air to condense. Next, close the refrigerator door on a dollar bill. Pull the bill out slowly. If there is a slight drag on the bill, your door gasket is OK. If the bill slips out easily and moisture and/or mold are present, it's time to invest about $50 to $75 (depending on the appliance brand and door size) and 30 minutes to replace the door gasket.

Find the refrigerator make, model and other identification information in the owner's manual. If you don't have a manual, look on the inside edge of the refrigerator door or inside either compartment, near the door, for the manufacturer's identification plate. Search online or check the yellow pages under “Appliances, Major, Parts” for stores or manufacturer service centers that stock your door gasket. You may also be able to find a parts source by visiting your manufacturer's Web site.

While you're removing the old door gasket, lay the new one in warm water for a few minutes to make it easier to install. Some gaskets (like ours) are held in place by a metal retainer attached around the door perimeter. Lift the inside edge of the old gasket to reveal the screws locking the gasket into the retainer, then loosen them.

Remove the old gasket from the retainer. Starting at one of the top door corners and working out to each side, slip the lip of the new gasket behind the retainer. The gasket fits only the one correct way. Complete the gasket installation and “snug up” but don't fully tighten the retainer screws.

Study the position of the door relative to the other door and the refrigerator cabinet. If either the refrigerator or freezer door is sagging or too high, loosen its hinges and align it. Finally, reduce gasket drag by applying a thin layer of petroleum jelly only along the hinge side of the gasket.

Refrigerator problem? It could be the compressor  but before you call the repair service, try these simple repairs. The problem may just be a bad overload or compressor relay.

Try a new overload or compressor

Pull the fridge away from the wall, unplug it and remove the service panel. Swap in the

new compressor and overload relays. Then plug it back in to see if the problem is gone.

Fix a refrigerator water dispenser quickly and easily with standard hand tools and a new switch. You can do it in an hour.

Buy a replacement switch and remove the trim panel

So the kids were really thirsty and jammed their glass into the water dispenser on the refrigerator door. Now the paddle is hanging by a wire, and you’re seeing a $300 repair bill. No way! You can do this repair yourself with ordinary hand tools in about an hour. A replacement paddle/switch costs about $75. We’ll show you how to make the repair on a Whirlpool refrigerator. Repairs on other makes are similar.

Open the fridge door and write down the model and serial number of the fridge. Then contact a local appliance parts dealer or use the Internet  to buy a new switch and paddle.

Start by unplugging the refrigerator. Then remove the drip tray to expose the trim panel screws. If you don’t see any screws, unsnap the panel using a plastic putty knife and paint can opener . Lift the trim panel off the door.

Replace the broken switch

Next, remove the microswitch. The switch retaining pegs are usually broken, so replace them with screws. If the paddle is broken, first disconnect the water tube. Then remove the metal paddle retainer plate and swap in a new paddle.

You might need to call a repairman, but try these three simple tests first.

Poor-draining dishwasher

First, check the drain-hose connection, drain-hose clamp, solenoid and

power supply. If that doesn't yield results, check the three things listed below.

Check the filter in the dishwasher's tub

You'll find the filter either in the bottom of the tub, surrounding the base of the lower spray arm, or at the back.

Check the drain hose

Disconnect the drain hose (usually it's the one with ridges) from the pump and try to blow through the hose to make sure it's clear.

Test the drain valve

If you have a valve bracket, your dishwasher has a drain valve. To test the valve, push on the valve bracket to make sure it moves freely.

Stop bad dishwasher odors by cleaning food scraps from the tub and running a dishwasher cleaner through a cycle.

If you smell bad dishwasher odors after running a cycle, don't reach for the bleach bottle. Bleach is very corrosive to metal parts and doesn't solve the root problem. The smell comes from bacteria that feed on trapped food and grease in the strainer screen at the bottom of the machine, in the jets in the sprayer arms and along the bottom edge of the door.

Start by cleaning and rinsing out the screen at the bottom of the tub. Next, clean out any food lodged in the ports of the sprayer arm. Then clean off the bottom edge of the door and the metal lip area that sits below the door. You'll be surprised at how much crud is there.

Once you've cleaned those areas, throw in a bottle of dishwasher cleaner and disinfectant ( Iron Out/Lime Out Dishwasher Magic Dishwasher Cleaner & Disinfectant 12 fl oz; order from ebay.com) and run a full cycle with no dishes or dishwashing detergent. Keep those critical areas clean in the future and your stinking problem won't come back.

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Repair kit. Color-matched vinyl repair paint and replacement rack tips are sold at appliance parts stores or online.

Photo 1: Clean the rack Load a wire brush into a rotary tool and zip off the old rust and vinyl. Keep brushing until you get to fresh metal. Then paint on a new coating. tips are sold at appliance parts stores or online.

Photo 2: Apply paint and new tips Coat the freshly cut tip with vinyl paint. Then slip a new vinyl tip over the tine. Let it dry and you’re good to go.

A rusty dishwasher rack can leave rust streaks on dishes. Instead of buying an overpriced replacement rack, recoat and cover the rusty spots yourself in less than an hour.

Dishwasher rack tines break off or lose the protective coating at the tips and then you get rust spots on your dishes. New racks cost about $80 (and up). But you can fix yours in less than an hour and for a fraction of that cost. Buy a bottle of vinyl repair paint and a package of replacement tips to match your rack color (from any appliance parts store or find-a-fix.com). Cut off the rusted tips with a rotary tool and cutoff wheel. Then retip the tines (Photo 2).

To patch a rusted area around a broken tine, first clean off the rust (Photo 1).

Two steps when your dishwasher doesn't clean well, fix it yourself following these simple steps and avoid the expensive professional service call. A simple cleaning often solves the problem.

STEP 1

If your dishwasher is running but the dishes aren’t getting clean, one of these simple fixes could solve your problem. Start by consulting your manual to be sure you’re using the right detergent, loading the dishes correctly and maintaining the right hot water temperature.

Insufficient water in the dishwasher also can cause poor cleaning. If the float gets stuck in the raised position, the dishwasher won’t fill with water. Another likely cause is a clogged inlet screen or faulty inlet valve. To determine if your dishwasher is getting enough water, start a wash cycle. Open the door when you hear the machine stop filling. The water should reach or come close to the heating coil. If it doesn’t, first make sure the float valve is operating freely . If this doesn’t solve the problem, check the inlet valve and screen.

STEP 2

Inlet valves that are starting to fail sometimes make a hammering noise. If you hear this, replace the valve. But before you start any work on the dishwasher, unplug it or turn off the power at the shutoff switch or main circuit panel. Test to see if the power is off by turning on the dishwasher and making sure it doesn’t run. You’ll also have to shut off the water before removing the inlet switch. Usually you’ll find a shutoff valve under the kitchen sink or in the basement or crawl space under the dishwasher. Otherwise, close the main water valve.

How to remove the inlet valve. Yours may look different. Whether you’re replacing the valve or simply cleaning the screen, you’ll have to unscrew the brass fitting that connects the water line to the valve. Remove the four screws that secure the valve to the bracket to access the filter screen. Reassemble and reinstall the valve in the reverse order. Wrap Teflon tape around the fitting threads before screwing the fitting into the valve.

Spin the motor by hand. Reach under the dishwasher and spin the fan blades on the motor. The access point is usually narrow. Wear gloves.

2. Check your power supply
All dishwashers should have a nearby shutoff, either a switch above the sink or a cord you can unplug under the sink. If the switch is off, turn it back on. Or plug the machine back in. If it doesn't start, check the circuit breaker or fuse at the main electrical panel to make sure it hasn't tripped. The dishwasher should have its own circuit.

1. Spin the motor
Sometimes the motor sticks and won't turn, especially if you haven't used the dishwasher for a while. One sign of this problem is a humming sound without any other action. To get things going again, remove the lower panels and reach under and spin the motor by turning its fan blades by hand . You must turn off the electrical power at your main panel to do this safely. If the blades don't turn freely, call in a service pro to diagnose the problem.

If the blades spin and the dishwasher still doesn't start when you turn the power back on, you're faced with a more complex problem—perhaps a bad switch, a clogged pump or bad wiring. Call a licensed electrician or a service pro to troubleshoot these types of problems.

A. Pinpoint the source (5 minutes)
A poorly sealing door causes most leaks, and this section concentrates on solutions for this problem. Check for a bad seal when washing the next load of dishes by looking for drips directly under the door. If you find moisture, go to the next step. If you don't find any and a puddle appears, unscrew the lower front panels and look for drips around hoses and other parts. Sometimes you can tighten a hose connection, but most repairs for these types of leaks are difficult. We won't cover these repairs in this article.

B. Eliminate simple door leak causes first (10 minutes)

• Check the gasket (Photo 10). If you can't find obvious damage, simply clean it with a sponge and all-purpose household cleaner.
• Clean the float switch. A float switch stuck in the lowered position will cause the tub to overfill. See Photos 4 and 5 for cleaning directions.
• Use the detergent specified for dishwashers only. Hand dishwashing liquid will over-foam, produce leaks and make your kitchen look like an old “I Love Lucy” episode.

C. Adjust the door (5 minutes)
Test your door to see if it needs adjustment. First, close and latch it. It should fit tightly. If you can jiggle it, it's too loose. Second, run the dishwasher and listen. Then push in on the door. If the sound decreases, the door is too loose.

Most dishwashers have an adjustable latch plate centered at the top of the frame (Photo 11). Adjusting this plate to tighten the door will help the gasket seal better. Adjust it in small increments, testing the door fit after each adjustment. The door should fit snug, but not so tight that you have to force or bend the latch.

D. Replace the door gasket (20 minutes)
If the leak around the door persists, the gasket is probably cracked, brittle or worn. Buy a new door gasket from an appliance parts store. Some types are tricky to install.

Read the instructions that come with the new gasket. Observe how the old one fits when you pull it out. And a couple of tips: Rub petroleum jelly on flanges to help them slip in easier. And soak them in hot water to soften the kinks and help prevent creases. If you can't make the new gasket watertight, don't hesitate to call a service pro for help.

Problem 1: Your dishwasher don't come out clean

A. Review the basics (5 minutes)

• Are you overloading your dishwasher? Check the manufacturer's instructions to make sure you're loading it right.
• Does silverware drop below the lower basket? The spray arm can't spin if obstructed.
• Are you using the proper dishwasher detergent?
• Do you routinely scrape food bits off dishes before loading them into the racks? (Rinsing is not necessary.)
• Are you using a special rinsing agent if your water is hard (highly mineralized)? Hard water can leave a film on the dishes.

Tip: Adding a water softening system can dramatically improve dishwasher performance.

• Is the water temperature high enough? This can be a complex issue.

We recommend that your household water heater be set no higher than 120 degrees F, both to help prevent accidental scalding and to maintain energy efficiency. Many dishwashers have heating elements that boost the temperature to about 140 degrees. However, some dishwashers don't have a heating booster and require household water at about 140 degrees. So first check the owner's manual for the recommended water heater setting.

If your dishwasher requires140-degree water, check the temperature of your hot water at its current setting. Put a meat thermometer in a glass and fill it at the kitchen faucet with water at its hottest point. If the temperature reads less than 140 degrees, you'll have to either risk raising the water heater setting (we don't recommend it) or consider buying a different dishwasher. But check the maintenance steps below first to make sure poor cleaning isn't caused by other factors. In any case, consult a service pro before making a buying decision.

B. Clean the spray arm (10 minutes)
Twirl the spray arm to make sure it spins freely. Also check the holes in the spray arm for debris. If you spot debris or the spray arm doesn't spin, remove the spray arm and clean it (Photos 1 – 3).

First take out the wire baskets by removing either a cap or pin at the end of the sliding tracks. Don't fret about a little water on the bottom of the tub. It's supposed to be there. It keeps the seals in the pump and in the motor assembly damp. If they dry out, they'll crack and leak.

The spray arm cap twists off with a clockwise turn, just the opposite of a regular screw (Photo 1). Twist ties, rubber bands and plastic and paper often show up in the spray arm. You might have to use a needle-nose pliers to pick them out. The pump usually sucks up most of this stuff, but if you hear a sudden loud grinding sound while running the dishwasher, something like broken glass might be stuck in the pump intake. Unscrew and remove the pump cover (Photo 2) to check it out.

C. Clean the float switch (5 minutes)
The float switch may not be a problem, but it takes only a few minutes to check it, so open it up and clean it anyway (Photos 4 and 5). Debris can cause the float to stick in the raised position, which prevents the tub from filling. If the water doesn't reach the right level (just covering the heating element), the dishwasher won't clean well. See the next section for how to check the water level.

On most models, you'll find the float switch in the lower front of the tub (Fig. A and Photo 4). Ours has a cover, but some don't. You may have to use a small, flexible brush or pipe cleaner to clean those without a removable cover. When clean, the float should slide up and down freely.

D. Clean the valve screen (30 minutes)
One common symptom of a clogged intake valve screen is a low water level during the dishwashing cycle. (Low water could also indicate a clogged float switch, but you've already taken a few minutes to check it.) So before going through the somewhat more complex steps for cleaning the intake valve screen, check the water level.

Close the door, turn on the machine and run it until it's done filling during its second cycle. Then open the door (the machine will automatically shut off), and check the water level. If the water doesn't come up to the heating element, it's too low. Close the door and let the machine cycle on through. Then proceed to clean the intake valve screen (Photos 6 – 9).

You'll have to unhook several wires, so always begin by turning off the electrical power to the dishwasher at your main panel. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher as well. Usually the shutoff is at the hot water supply line under a nearby sink. The inlet valve is usually mounted on the underside of the dishwasher near the front.

You have to remove the lower panels (Photo 6) and disconnect the valve (Photos 7 and 8) to get at the valve.

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Simple maintenance will wipe out 90 percent of dishwasher problems. This article provides solutions for three common problems: the dishes don't come out clean, the dishwasher leaks water, and the dishwasher won't start. We'll show you how to make the fixes yourself and save the money you would have paid a repairman.

Save money doing the repairs yourself

Do your dishes come out spotted and stained? Have you noticed a puddle of water on the floor? Does your dishwasher simply fail to start up? If so, you're not alone. These three complaints make up the vast majority of dishwasher problems. But now the good news: You can solve these problems about 90 percent of the time without calling for professional help. Instead of paying $70 for a service call, do the work yourself in less than 30 minutes. Most repairs involve only routine maintenance and require no special tools or skills and little or no expense.

In this article, we'll tell you how to pinpoint the causes of most problems, then walk you through simple maintenance steps to correct them. In most cases, even a time-pressed novice can get the dishwasher working again within a half-hour.

We're using a GE dishwasher for our demonstration, but most brands and models have a similar design. Pull out the owner's manual and compare it with our illustrations to help identify and locate key parts. It will also help you identify part numbers when you need them. If you can't find the manual, you can order one from the appliance manufacturer. Appliance dealers can supply the customer service number for your brand.

Microwave oven keeps blowing fuses

Phone: 718-787-1301

Solution: Check the door switch as described above. The capacitor or diode may be bad. Discharge the capacitor as described earlier in the article. Test the capacitor by removing the leads and setting the VOM to RX100. Probe the terminals. The reading should start in the low ohms and increase toward infinity. Reverse the probes and re-test. The reading should do the same thing. If not, it's bad. To test the diode, disconnect the diode from both the appliance and the capacitor. With the VOM set to RX100, probe the wires. Then reverse the probes and read again. You should get infinity for one reading and low ohms for the other reading. If not, replace. Another cause could be a faulty magnetron, but due to the sensitivity of that piece, it's best left to a professional.