Appliance Repair Service

Yellowed handles can make a refrigerator or other appliance look

old before its time. Fix the problem easily with a spray paint designed for plastic surfaces.

The white refrigerator in your kitchen didn't come with yellow handles, but they're yellow now. Even after cleaning, they'll still look pretty grungy against the bright white porcelain cabinet. New handles are pretty pricey, so why not just paint them? It's easy and cheap. Buy a can of paint formulated to paint plastic at a home center. Then pick up a bottle of degreaser and a scrubbing pad.

Remove the handles. Then wash them with degreaser and hot water. Use a scrub pad on textured areas to remove the dirt. Pay particular attention to dirt in crevices. Then wipe the handles with a dry cloth and let them air-dry.

Mask off any emblems or chrome trim and paint the handles. Paint the vanity caps at the same time. Then reinstall the handles. You may have to repaint them in a few years. But in the meantime, they'll look a lot better.

Turn a stinky fridge into a clean fridge by disinfecting the interior and then adding newspapers and charcoal for the final treatment. Odors will be gone within several days.

When your power goes out and the food in your fridge and freezer goes bad, you’ve got a really stinky mess on your hands. Obviously the first step is to remove the food and wipe everything down with a disinfecting cleaning spray. But our appliance expert, Costas Stavrou, gave us the rest of the story.

Turns out the most common mistake DIYers make is not cleaning all the nooks and crannies inside the freezer. The biggest culprits? The shelf supports in your freezer. Costas says to remove them and clean behind them with detergent and disinfectant to get rid of any blood or crud. If they’re permanently attached, soak them with cleaning spray. Next, forget about those expensive charcoal odor removers or coffee (which is even more expensive). Just use newspaper and charcoal briquettes. Finally (and this is the most important part), replace the old newspaper and charcoal with fresh stuff every day for about a week or until the smell is gone. Don’t think a single treatment is enough. It isn’t.

Locate and replace the leaky tubing

If you have a water dispenser in the door of your refrigerator and notice water on the floor when you fill a glass, the vinyl tubing that runs under the refrigerator could be leaking. To find out, pull the refrigerator forward a little. Then tip it back and prop up the front feet on blocks of wood. Look underneath and ask someone to dispense a glass of water. If the tube’s leaking, you’ll see it.

The fix is simple. Photos 1–3 show the steps. Cut out the section of damaged tubing and take it with you to the home center or hardware store. Buy a new section of vinyl tubing and one or two quick-connect couplings. If you don’t have a quick-connect coupling on one end of the damaged tube as shown in Photo 1, then cut the tubing in two spots and join it with two new quick-connect couplings.

The tubing for icemakers can also get damaged and leak. So if you ever notice water on the floor under your refrigerator, check for a leaking tube and repair it using the process we show here.

4/4 POST HOW TO FIX YOURS REFRIGERATOR

Problem: A noisy fridge

Refrigerator noise comes from either the compressor under the fridge, the condenser fan motor under the fridge, or the evaporator fan motor inside the freezer. Open the freezer door while the fridge is running. If the noise doesn't get louder when you open the freezer, pull out the fridge. Most refrigerators have a condenser fan motor (Photo 13). Unscrew the back cover and listen—you'll be able to tell whether the noise is coming from the fan or the compressor. The best cure for a loud compressor is usually a new fridge. To replace the fan motor, remove its mounting screws, unplug it and install the new one.

Easy solutions to refrigerator noises

If the sound gets louder when you open the freezer, the evaporator fan motor is the noisy culprit. This motor is easy to replace. Your fan may not look exactly like the fan, but the basic steps are the same. Start by unscrewing the back cover panel in the freezer compartment. To install the new fan, just reverse your steps.

3/4 POST HOW TO FIX YOURS REFRIGERATOR

Problem: Fridge or freezer won't cool

There are lots of malfunctions that can take the chill out of your fridge. One common cause of suddenly soft ice cream or warm juice is a simple loss of electricity. If the light doesn't come on when you open the fridge door, make sure the fridge is plugged in and check the breaker panel. If the fridge runs but doesn't get cold enough, chances are one of the following fixes will restore the chill.

Easy solutions for cooling problems

FIRST, check the thermostat and vents. The temperature control dial inside the fridge is sometimes irresistible to curious kids. Make sure it hasn’t been turned way down. Also make sure the vents in the fridge and freezer compartment aren't blocked by food containers these vents supply the flow of frigid air.

SECOND, clean the coils. In order for your fridge to create a chill, air has to flow freely through the condenser coils. On most older refrigerators, these coils are on the backside. Cereal boxes on top of the fridge or grocery bags stuffed behind it can reduce the needed airflow. Most newer refrigerators have coils underneath, where they can get blocked by trash and plugged with dust. Even if your fridge is working fine, you should pull off the front grille and clean the coils every year for efficient operation; do it every six months if you have shedding pets. Long brushes are available at appliance stores for $8.

THIRD, free up the condenser fan. Coils on the back of a fridge create their own airflow as they heat up. Models with coils underneath have a fan to push air through them. Dust buildup can slow the fan; wads of paper or other trash can stop it altogether.

2/4 POST HOW TO FIX YOURS REFRIGERATOR

Simple fixes for the four most common refrigerator problems: an ice-maker breakdown, water leaking onto the floor, a cooling failure and too much noise. Chances are, you can solve the problem yourself, save some money and avoid the expense and inconvenience of a service appointment. The following article will walk you through the simplest solutions to the most common fridge malfunctions.

Problem: The fridge produces puddles

The water supply lines that serve icemakers or water dispensers can leak and make pools under the fridge. But a fridge without these features can create water problems too. Every fridge produces water in the form of condensation and melting ice. When the system that deals with this water fails, you can end up with puddles inside and outside of the fridge.

Easy solutions for fridge leaks

FIRST, check the water supply line . If your fridge has an icemaker or water dispenser, pull out the fridge and look for a leak. If there's a leak at the inlet valve, tighten the compression nuts. If the plastic or copper tube is leaking, replace it. Tubing is usually connected to the saddle valve  and inlet valve with screw on compression fittings.

SECOND, level the fridge. Water drains into a pan under the fridge where it evaporates. If your fridge is badly tilted, water can spill out of the pan. Leveling the fridge solves this problem.

THIRD, clear the drain tube. If the drain tube in the freezer gets plugged, water leaks into the compartment below or onto the floor. To unplug it, first remove the cover panel. In some models, you have to unscrew the floor panel too. Use a hair dryer to melt any ice buildup. Sop away the melt water with a sponge. Then clean up around the drain hole. Blow air through the tube to clear it. Any tube that fits tightly into the hole will work. You can also use a tire pump or air compressor (turn the pressure down to 30 psi).

1/4 POST HOW TO FIX YOURS REFRIGERATOR

Simple fixes for the four most common refrigerator problems: an ice-maker breakdown, water leaking onto the floor, a cooling failure and too much noise. Chances are, you can solve the problem yourself, save some money and avoid the expense and inconvenience of a service appointment. The following article will walk you through the simplest solutions to the most common fridge malfunctions.

Problem: Icemaker on strike

When an icemaker stops working or produces only tiny cubes, it's usually because the water supply is partially or completely blocked. To find and fix the blockage, check out the three common trouble spots.

Easy fixes for an icemaker

FIRST, check the water inlet tube for ice. The tube that supplies water to your icemaker can get plugged with ice when the water pressure is low. The trickling water freezes and plugs the tube before it reaches the icemaker.

SECOND, unblock the saddle valve. Most icemakers are connected to the household water supply by a “saddle” valve. One problem with saddle valves is that the needle hole in the pipe can clog. Fortunately, that blockage is easy to clear once you locate the saddle valve. If you have an unfinished basement, you'll probably find a tube beneath the fridge that leads to the valve. Otherwise, look under your kitchen sink.

THIRD, replace the water inlet valve. At the back of your fridge, there's a small electric “inlet valve” that turns the water supply to the icemaker on and off. Before you replace the valve, make sure water is flowing to it: Turn off the water at the saddle valve  and disconnect the supply tube from the inlet valve . Hold the tube over a bucket and have a helper turn on the saddle valve. If water flows out of the tube, the water supply is fine and chances are the inlet valve is bad. See “Finding Fridge Parts” for help finding a new valve. When the job is done, turn the water back on and check for leaks before you push the fridge back into place.

This article will show you how to run a water line to your refrigerator for an automatic ice maker and water dispenser. The story and how-to photos cover tapping into an existing water pipe (the toughest part of the job) and attaching copper tubing to the fridge. If you're replacing your old refrigerator, this DIY project covers everything you need to know to install the plumbing.

The biggest challenge when running a water line to your refrigerator is tapping into the cold water pipe and running the 1/4-in.O.D. (outside diameter) flexible copper tubing. You can buy icemaker installation kits at home centers and some hardware stores, but we don't recommend them. Most contain a saddle valve (which doesn't meet plumbing code in some regions) and some contain plastic tubing (which can dry, split and leak over time). We recommend more permanent valves and copper tubing for better water flow and reduced risk of leaks, which can cause extensive damage.To start, locate the cold water source nearest to the refrigerator—perhaps under the kitchen sink, below the floor, in the wall or even in the ceiling. In this kitchen, we ran the new water line from under the kitchen sink through cabinets. Be sure to keep the tubing above storage areas and behind drawers if possible to avoid tube damage. If you need to drill through floors or walls, check for air ducts, electrical wiring, plumbing or other possible impediments first. Next, calculate how many feet of 1/4-in.O.D. flexible copper tubing you need. Figure 6 to 8 ft. of extra coiled tubing behind the fridge so you can pull it out for cleaning and service.Then decide which one of three water line connection options you will use: a regular tee fitting that is soldered, a compression tee fitting or a saddle valve. Plumbers recommend removing a section of the cold water pipe to solder in a regular 1/2-in. copper tee. If you have CPVC (plastic) or steel pipes, add tee fittings made of the same material. If you don't want to solder, you can cut the copper water pipe and install a 5/8-in.O.D. compression tee instead (just don't use them inside walls because it's not safe and plumbing code won't allow it).Add pipe compound to the threads to make it easier to tighten compression joints.The least dependable option is a saddle valve designed for 1/2-in. copper pipe. It has a tiny shutoff valve that uses a sharp pointed metal rod to pierce the outer wall of the pipe when screwed inward. Then you back out the rod and water flows through a tiny hole into the tubing. Some appliance installers say saddle valves work, but most refrigerator makers recommend that you drill a hole in the pipe for better flow instead of using the valve to pierce the hole, then attach the saddle valve (check your owner's manual).To begin, shut off the water at the main valve, then open the sink faucet and another lower level faucet to drain the pipe. Next, cut out a small section of the cold water pipe and solder in a copper tee. Cut a 3- to 4-in. piece of copper pipe and solder it into the tee under the sink, then solder a water supply stop valve on the other end. Once the assembly has cooled, close the new valve and open the water main to check the fittings for leaks.Then plan a tubing route through all the cabinets (avoiding sharp turns that can kink tubing) and drill 1/2-in. holes as needed between cabinets. To straighten coiled tubing (not the entire roll), have a partner hold the end of the tube flat on the floor, then push the roll against the floor while unrolling to the length you need to go through the cabinets. Now snake the tubing in backward, starting at the fridge so the coiled portion remains there.Next, attach the 1/4-in.water line to the stop valve with a compression joint. Then attach the tubing to the back of the cabinets every 2 to 4 ft. using 1/4-in. nylon wire/cable clamps. Once you're outside the last cabinet, don't attach any clamps; just run the tubing to the floor near the water hookup on the fridge. But do clamp the tubing to the fridge.Don't forget to flush out the tubing by running a gallon of water through the new line into a bucket before you attach it to the fridge. To attach the tubing to the refrigerator, follow the owner's manual.Normally the compression fittings come with the fridge. Before you cut the tubing to its final length, make sure you have 6 to 8 ft. of coiled tubing that will remain coiled and stored behind the fridge when you push it back into place.Be sure to cut the end of the tubing square. Then slide on the compression fittings, lubricate the threads on the refrigerator fitting with pipe compound and screw on the tubing. Important: Hand-tighten the fitting, then tighten three-quarters of a turn using a small wrench on both sides of the fitting. Once it's attached, open the new stop valve and check.

Read more...

You may be able to solve your problem by installing a “garage kit,” a heating coil to warm the air around the thermostat. The warmer air makes the compressor run longer and keeps frozen food, well, frozen. Check with the manufacturer to see if itmakes one for your model. But before you shell out $20 for the kit, consider how much you’ll have to spend to keep your brews chilled and pizzas frozen in the summer. Your old fridge is less efficient than your new one, so it’s already costing you more to run. Add 25 percent to run the old clunker in an 80-degree garage. Then double the bill if it’s running in a garage at 90 degrees and up. Are you sure you want to pay that much just to save a trip to the kitchen?

Replace the evaporator fan:

Here are some troubleshooting tips to help you zero in on the problem. If you can hear the compressor running but the fridge isn’t cooling, the problem is most likely either frost-clogged evaporator coils or a stuck or broken evaporator fan. Evaporator fans often squeal or chirp when they start to go bad. You’ll know it’s the evaporator fan if the noise gets louder when you open the freezer door. The evaporator coils and fan are located behind a cover in the freezer compartment.  If you remove the cover inside the freezer and find the coils completely filled with frost, take everything out of the freezer and fridge, unplug it and let it thaw for 24 to 48 hours. Keep a few towels handy to soak up water that may leak onto the floor. When all the frost is melted away, plug the fridge back in. If it works, the problem may be a defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost thermostat. Replacing these parts isn’t difficult, but figuring out which is faulty requires troubleshooting that we won’t cover here. Call a pro if you have  problem.Normally the condenser fan and compressor, located near the floor on the back of most refrigerators, come on the back of most refrigerators, come on when the thermostat calls for more cooling. If you don’t hear the compressor running after the door has been left open for a while, it could mean the condenser fan is stuck or worn out or that the relay or compressor is bad.

Replace the condenser fan:

Pull the fridge away from the wall, unplug it and remove the thin panel on the back near the bottom to access the compressor and condenser fan. Next plug the fridge in and wait for the compressor to come on. The fan should also come on. If the compressor runs but the fan doesn’t, or if the fan is noisy, you need a new fan. If neither runs and the compressor is hot, unplug the fridge and point a fan or a hair dryer set to “no heat” at the compressor. Wait for the compressor to cool and try again. If the compressor runs but the fan doesn’t, the fan is bad. Unplug the refrigerator and replace the fan. If neither runs, then you may need a new relay or compressor. Call an appliance repair technician to find out.